Famous Dave's
3 Reenders Dr
R2C 5K5
204-504-7200
Fax: 204-504-7201
http://www.famousdaves.com/Winnipeg
November, 2012
I normally do not review chain restaurants. With an HQ in Austin
or Jacksonville or wherever, the
local joint has little freedom to deviate from the brand’s biblical menu. Your spaghetti and meatballs taste the same
in New Mexico as they would in Winnipeg
and there’s a reason for it—consistency.
Sauces arrive by the barrelful, frozen and sealed. Upon arrival, an army of university students
reheat and plate, and there you have it:
dinner with paint-by-number precision.
The “chef” is little more than a kitchen manager, tasked to ensure that
your meal comes to you the same every time.
That’s how it is with Famous Dave’s as well. I’ve eaten a lot of Dave’s in my life and Dave
in Winnipeg tastes like Dave in Fargo,
tastes like Dave in Minneapolis,
tastes like Dave in Wisconsin Dells. However,
since the people of Winnipeg dive
to Dave’s with fiery frenzy, I feel obligated to give you the lowdown.
Before you go, be sure to prepare for the lineup. During our first visit, your meal came with a
2½ hour wait; our next visit still featured a 45 minute seat on the lobby
bench. Dave’s just started taking
reservations, limited from Mondays to Thursdays.
Once again, if you already visited Dave in the US,
you know what the food’s all about. If
you’re new to Dave, then prepare for something that’s still quite novel to Winnipeg: authentic smoked meats. For a few years, Lovey’s has done an adequate
job of smoking their meats, and Muddy Waters put forth the effort but Dave
brings mainstream smoking to the prairies.
As with every other Dave, the restaurant looks rustic and
shack/cabin-like. The décor and music
all spell spit-on-the-floor casualness so you’ll feel right at home with your
faded jeans or comfy sweats; if you throw on a cowboy hat, you’ll disappear
into the props.
Most people come here for the meat and the menu pushes the
blue ribbon ribs, smoked, sauced then kissed on the grill. I can’t think of a better way to make ribs,
but unfortunately, these ribs come overcooked and dry. While sporting great flavour and taste, the
ends of the rib rack taste stringy and tough from too much heat. Perfect ribs look juicy, taste tender and
fall off the bones; these ribs only fall off the bone.
Dave does a much better job on the chicken, which indeed
falls off the bones and maintains its moisture.
The sauce-smothered skin complements the meat nicely, although you can
easily augment it with any of the other barbecue sauces that adorn your
table. Whether you like smoking hot or
mildly edgy, Dave’s got a sauce that you’re sure to love.
You’re also going to love the meaty and perfectly prepared
chicken wings. Recently, I dined at a
number of places that offered wing deals, only to give you squab-sized,
emaciated appendages. Dave’s wings don’t
disappoint and you’re going to love them prepared in your choice of sauce.
If you want to avoid red and white meats, Dave offers a
limited selection of seafood. The
beer-batter cod comes with a light batter that tastes wonderfully crisp thanks
to the injection of cornmeal. The
seasoned batter acts as a flavour envelope, hugging the fish. The zingy tartar sauce finishes the fish
nicely.
Every meal comes with a cornbread muffin, which tastes moist
and flavourful—you may want to pass if you have limited stomach space. I normally just eat the semi-crisp top. American Dave gives you a segment of corn
with your meal but in Canada,
it comes as a side. Invariably, the corn
cobs tasted overcooked and squishy so skip it unless you like your corn kernels
bursting under your fingertips. Instead
go for Wilbur’s baked beans, sweet, hearty and accompanied by big chunks of
various meats.
The friendly staff makes sure that you enjoy your meal,
especially if you’ve been standing outside for a while. You’ll enjoy good food, because Dave makes
good food, but Dave doesn’t make great food.
You’ll hear a lot of people rave about Dave, but that’s only because
there isn’t any better barbecue in Winnipeg. If you taste some of the truly great barbecue
from the BBQ Belt, wrapping the southeast corner of the US,
with tentacles reaching Missouri,
Kansas and Texas,
you will melt into divinely smoked meats.
In the meantime, Famous Dave’s will keep you under control, but let
yourself loose in the belt if you get the chance.
***½ /5
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Got a Gift Certificate & thought I'd check it out on the 'net'. This has got to be one of the most thorough, honest, well phrased critiques I have ever read. Thanks for the 'heads up'. I'll know what to & what not to order.
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