Lake of the Woods Brewing Company


Lake of the Woods Brewing Company
350 Second Street South
Kenora, ON
P9N 1G5
807-468-BEER

Lake of the Woods Brewing Company Inc. on Urbanspoon

July, 2013

I love touring Kenora.  In the past, the highlights of our visits included hikes through the picturesque Canadian Shield landscape, and floating on the pristine waters of the Lake of the Woods.  The food always tasted good—how can you go wrong with freshly landed pickerel (walleye if you’re not a Toban)?  As of late, I sense a renaissance in the area, regaining some of its spirit that was lost with the milling industry.  The prized harbour front has a sparkling new convention area and a shiny restraining fence replaces the rotting wood barrier.  Now I wish they would get rid of that ugly parking lot that dominates prime waterside space.

Along with the welcome improvements comes an injection of new restaurants and places to lounge.  Our standby Hops is gone but there’s a spate of newcomers ready to take its place.  Recently opened, the Lake of the Woods Brewing Company (LoW) brings brew-pubbing to the area.  Sitting a couple of streets away from the harbour, you do not get a view of the water but their well-situated patio offers a front row seat to the bustling downtown.  Converted from an old fire hall, the former fire engine garage doors make great portals to the outside air.  Inside, the dining has the typical smells of malt, barley and hops (which I love).  If that’s not your thing, I can’t think of a better way to spend the afternoon than to sit under an umbrella of the nice patio, sipping beer.

LoW features three flagship beers, Sultana Gold, Papermaker and Firehouse Amber Ale.  They advertise the Sultana as an easy drinking, introductory beer for craft novices.  For you mass-production enthusiasts, this is a good place to start.  The Papermaker is a lager that offers more gusto than most lagers.  The IBU rating of 40 gives it a bitterness in the range of most ales, yet maintaining the smoothness of the lager.  By contrast, the Firehouse Amber Ale has a smoother body and sweeter taste.  This fruity beer has hints of nuts and a tinge of pumpkin.  If you don’t like beer—why are you here?  Oh, there’s the food aspect as well.

The menu features a wide spectrum of possibilities, ranging from Thai and Curry to classic pub grub.  The shoestring fries come well cooked, crispy and not greasy.  To go with the fries, they offer a house blend or seasoning, or lemon chilli or garlic cheese. 

If you wish, you can upgrade to any of their poutines.  The pork shoulder poutine features roasted pulled pork that has nice flavours and melt-in-your-mouth tenderness.  You don’t get a lot with the poutine so next time, a Cubano sandwich is in order.

The Smoked Brisket Beef Dip sandwich comes in a tiny hot dog bun, which gives me the first impression that this will never satisfy me for lunch.  The generous stuffing of beef brisket takes over and ensures that you end up with a hearty meal.  The beef has a nice smoke ring and delicious flavour, but it’s a tad dry.  Generous use of the dipping bowl should take care of that.  The Swiss cheese adds depth and a slight zing to the taste, and the pickle gives a great crunch to the texture.

No visit to Kenora is complete without some pickerel and LoW offers it in the appetiser section, breaded and fried.  I’m a little sceptical about the kimchee sauce; I’ve never met a kimchee that didn’t overpower the meal like Godzilla stomping on Bambi.  They pull it off as I barely taste the fermenting of the vegetables (fermenting is best left in the beer).  The morsels of pickerel taste light and crispy, with good moisture remaining in the meat. 

The keen service ensures that our glasses are never empty and that our empty plates are gone pronto.  Spot-on service, great food, reasonable prices, and tasty beer—what more can you ask?  I guess I can ask for a growler and/or swag from their souvenir shop on the way out.  This is a welcome addition to the Kenora scene, and judging by the number of people filtering in and out, I think they know it. 

****½ /5

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