Perkins

Perkins
7 Locations across Winnipeg

I’m not a big fan of transnational chain restaurants but sometimes they’re unavoidable.  For some reason, I can’t get the after-work crowd to go to a local sports bar, rather than a Smitty’s.  Then there’s my parents’ generation which finds comfort in Salisbury House, which can do no wrong even if they serve up dog crap on a plate.

Don’t get me wrong—not all chains are bad.  There are some that serve great food, but Perkins isn’t one of them. 

Although the atmosphere feels cozy enough, the laminated menus immediately give me the icky feeling.  The front cover features their current promotion, the Great SteakOut, highlighting the Steak & Mushroom Flip.  The picture looks very enticing, loaded with big chunks of steak, fluffy eggs, encased with a crispy potato pancake and topped with a dollop of sour cream.  Alas, the real thing looks nothing like the laminated image.  I can count six chunks of beef, each severely overcooked, sere and desiccated.  Despite the dish’s name, I find no more than two slices of mushrooms in the entire concoction.  The eggs taste light and fluffy, so the dish isn’t a total write-off.

Another entry in their special array, the Steak & Crispy Potato Stack is hardly a stack.  While the potato wedges come crispy as advertised, the nuggets of steak come from the same source as the other dish, cooked so dry that it’s falling apart.  The addition of the sautéed onions and green peppers derives from the classic Philly cheese steak combination (minus the cheese).  Although slightly greasy, the combination works.  The side salad looks crisp and fresh; however, upon digging through the outer layer of vegetables, you find some lettuce ribs and some browning leaves.  It’s a nice attempt to cover up the not-so-fresh.

From the main menu, the Fish & Chips comes with crispy, home-cut fries—skip the gravy unless cold and coagulated is your thing.  In fact, you should just skip the entire meal unless you like overcooked fish that’s hard and solid.  The pre-fab tartar sauce comes right from a Kraft jar, smooth and homogenised.  Most mains come with a roll, which complements the meal quite well.  The hardness and dryness of the bread matches the fish perfectly.

I can’t understand how these places stay in business.  I know people come because of the name but why would you come back after you’ve tasted the food?  It’s simply not good. 

*¾ /5

Perkins Family Restaurant & Bakery on Urbanspoon


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