Chop (Steak Fish Bar)

Chop – Steak Fish Bar
1750 Sargent Ave
204-788-2015
http://www.chop.ca

November, 2008

Walk into Chop’s dining room and you feel somewhat small standing beside their high walls and their concert hall-sized curtains, but the theme is not a novel one. Chop’s interior borrows ideas from one of the current restaurant décor trends that permeate Winnipeg in a cookie-cutter fashion. Today’s new and emerging restaurants largely model after one of two beliefs of design: cozy, warm and inviting (a la The Gates on Roblin, Oui and 529 Wellington) or dark, modern, funky and spacious (a la Moxie’s, Joey’s and Tony Roma’s). Chop follows the latter and takes it to a new level of grandeur. Moxie’s floods the dining room with trendy and electric music and Joey’s hones their acoustics to redirect ambient noise towards the floor to generate activity and ambiance. Chop takes a step back from the noise feature and cuts ambient sound with spacious room for sound to travel and a subdued, mainstream-style music. Coupled with the cubicle-height booth walls, Chop obviously tries to promote a more romantic atmosphere. The open spaciousness and the black-dominant décor preclude any real romantic setting but the ambiance isn’t without its own charm.

The staff also follows the popular trend that features physically attractive people clad in black attire. However, Chop’s requirement for the serving staff to sport uniformed outfits raises the restaurant to a higher class level than the revealing and flirtatious servers that haunt many establishments (pioneered a decade ago by Earl’s). Our server exuded friendliness and enthusiasm with an acceptable level of knowledge and professionalism. Attempting to feature a romantic milieu, I believe that the service came a little too quickly and promptly. To truly enjoy and savour a special meal, customers often prefer to lounge in isolation over a couple of drinks while the food leisurely finds its way to the table. Because Chop is one of the newest “hip” establishments in Winnipeg, they prefer to get you quickly out the door, reset, and welcome the next set of guests.

Ambiance aside, diners frequent restaurants because of the taste and quality of their foods. With a name like Chop, I expect unparalleled cuts of unadulterated red meat. Now add the Fish Bar descriptors and from the subtext, I expect a considerable layout of seafood featuring fresh shellfish and (of course) raw oysters on the half-shell. Sadly, I discover the “bar” refers to their sports-lounge and not a “fish-bar.” Disappointment aside, with explicit “fish” in the title, I still expect a considerable segment of the menu to feature out-of-the-ordinary seafood selections. Sadly, I meet with disappointment again. Only four fish items adorn menu’s main course section, Halibut Chop, Macadamia Crusted Mahi Mahi, Wasabi Crusted Ahi Tuna and Citrus Soy Glazed Wild Salmon. The menu also features a “Fresh Catch of the Day,” which our server didn’t bother to mention.

Although none of the cited items interested me, I cannot sit bear through the meal without trying at least one of their seafood offerings. I opt for the Creamy Seafood Chowder, which our server assured would taste delicious. The menu described the chowder to have bay scallops and whenever I hear bay, I expect hearty and substantial pieces of scallop meat in the meal. Alas, the seafood only featured minced and ground seafood. While I would have preferred larger bits of seafood in the soup, I cannot argue with the flavour. The deliciously full and robust taste of the ocean burst out of the soup, reminiscent of a chowder like none I tried since I left San Francisco. Fabulous!

Whereas fish comprises a mention in Chop’s name, the restaurant bases its reputation on its cuts of beef. Again, Chop’s menu is a little shy on its selection of meats but they cover the major interests, including New York, sirloin, porterhouse, rib eye and tenderloin. I would have liked to see them add some creative options but what they offer is adequate. My companion chooses the prime rib, which Chop boasts to roast in rock salt and fresh pepper. Chop offers four cut sizes; my companion orders the medium cut, which should satisfy most diners. The rib comes with freshly shaved horseradish, an absolutely perfect accompaniment to a perfectly prepared and delectably prime rib. The meal comes au jus and the jus tastes rich and flavourful. Although not listed on the menu, you can ask for a simple baked potato—our potato is almost pumpkin-sized.

Chop features a limited specialty section; from it, I opt to have the Cabernet Braised Beef Short Ribs. The menu suggests having the infused mash potatoes with the ribs; instead I have the seven-grain wild rice pilaf. The interesting combination rewards the diner with intriguing textures and tastes but I expect more flavour from a pilaf than what they offer. I regret not trying the infused mashed potatoes. As for the ribs, I look forward to a rich and profound sauce that comes from braising. The sauce on Chop’s ribs tasted a little bland but not offensive. I would have braised the ribs longer to further infuse and comingle the flavours between the cabernet sauvignon and the meat. Braised ribs should willingly fall off the bones in its tenderness but these ribs still have some fight in them (although they’re not tough or chewy at all). As an overall impression, this dish doesn’t quite fulfill its potential but it tastes enjoyable nevertheless.
The dessert menu—led by a 24-layer chocolate cake—dares you to take gluttony to a new level, especially after a red meat gorge. The cake looks too intimidating to us so we opt for the vanilla ice cream with chocolate ganache. The ganache could be a little thicker, which would make it form a slight solidification when cooled by the ice cream. That’s my only complaint. Chop churns its own ice cream on premises and the explosion of genuine vanilla demands that you pay attention. Absolutely delicious!

Largely, the prices are higher than Moxie’s or Joey’s prices but lower than Keg prices. Excepting a few minor flaws, Chop provides a good meal that merits the money that you pay. Being new and popular, I recommend you make reservations, well in advance.

***½ /5


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