King's Head Pub

King’s Head Pub
120 King St.
(204) 957-7710
http://www.fae-wpg.com/kingshead/kingshead.htm

August, 2009

The first time I visited the King’s Head Pub, it was a tiny little hole that burst through the seams with customers and burst through the roof with cigarette smoke. This noisy little bar was a social hot spot that constantly filled with schmoozers and boozers. The basement restaurant offered a quiet oasis with comfortable Indian food. Today, the basement is long closed but the pub expands in every other direction. Indian food remains on the menu and I swear that a hint of cigarette smoke still oozes from the wooden walls to linger. The patio fronts King Street, a bustling roadway in the day but a deserted wasteland at night—unless a festival swings by Old Market Square, then you have a nice front row seat to all the activities. What a perfect setting for a beer and a show.

As a British pub, you expect two things: so-so English food and great beer. The Head follows through nicely on the beer front with an assortment of draughts from the Isles, as well as an impressive assortment from elsewhere in the world. The wine selection is limited but whoever heard of great British wine? The British just drink great French wines! To the Head’s credit, they could do worse than supply the typical Wolf Blass as a house selection.

As for the food, the Head features the usual fish and chips, bangers and mash, and shepherd’s pie, along with an extensive line of sandwiches and burgers. The fish tastes light and flakey; by contrast, the fries swim in grease and have no semblance of crunchiness. They have good flavour so if you like greasy, soft fries, you’re in luck.

Any true foody would skip right past the English menu pages and go directly to the Indian section. As starters, the plump, beef samosas erupt with beef but sadly, they lack deep flavour. The samosas also taste a little dry but the sweet tamarind chutney takes care of that. For less than $4, the samosas come at great value.

Value reflects onto the main menu as most courses run less than $10, with only a couple of exceptions. At $12, the butter chicken brings good frontal taste, but the chicken lacks depth and complexity. The korma has too many raisins and tastes a touch too sweet for my preferences. The beef curry (with chick peas added) tastes the blandest of all the dishes tried. The sauce reminds me of a simple homemade stew with curry powder added. In general, all the Indian dishes here lack imagination but there’s nothing wrong with any of them.

Most restaurants never bring as much heat to its food as I like. I ask for my curry beef screaming hot and the Head delivers without fail. Again, although the heat provokes tears and smoke from the ears, it has little depth and flavour. Our server confesses to spicing up the dishes with Dave’s Insanity Sauce, which explains the searing heat without the accompanying flavour.

I rarely dine in British pubs but the presence of Indian always comes as a pleasant addition. Alas, the Head’s Indian stands at par with fast food Indian—the saving aspect comes from its prices, which are not much higher than fast food prices. The main reason to come to the King’s Head Pub is for the beer.

*** /5

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