3123 Portage Ave
(204) 831-5531
http://www.stevesbistro.com/
June, 2011
Dozens of strip malls line Winnipeg’s major streets and you’ll find a restaurant in most of those malls. Some might be nice, some dumpy, and some downright nasty. Judging by the frontage of Steve’s Bistro, I have no idea which to expect as I approach the doors. The strip mall looks a little dumpy but Steve’s stunning combination of modern décor with Old World Mediterranean feel delightfully surprises me. Beautiful artwork adorns the walls and if you like them enough, they’re all for sale. Subdued Greek music caps the pleasant ambiance, shared by a dining room full of din in the middle of the afternoon. The competent and courteous staff buzzes busily through the tables as they bring out a stream of food and refreshments.
The short but exciting wine list should satisfy most palettes but there’s only one each of red, white and blush by the glass. Fortunately, the selections are better than the usual Jackson Triggs.
For a mere $3, Steve offers you a choice of dips as starters. The hummus comes rich and deliciously garlicky. The grilled pita tastes wonderfully warm and a sliver of red onion completes the perfect bite. Next time, I’d consider ordering all of the dips and nosh exclusively on them for lunch.
As lunch specials, Steve offers a choice of Reuben sandwich, turkey and ham Panini, or beef and lamb gyros. Each comes with a choice of fries, soup or salad, and rings in at a mere $10, with a 30 minute guarantee. There is no menu soup so you have to go with the flavour of the day. Of today’s two selections, I try the white bean soup, which comes packed with vegetables. The generous chunks of carrots taste a little overcooked but the beans taste wonderful. The odd tomato broth tastes a bit over-salted on one spoonful and just right on alternating scoops. I’m not sure if my taste buds are playing with me, or if the soup pot needs some stirring.
The considerable gyros comes in the familiar grilled pita. The fresh romaine and tomato are joined by just enough red onions to give the perfect combination of vegetable flavours. The bistro-made tzatziki pulls the ingredients together. The thin slices of beef and lamb accent the combination well, although I would have liked to see a bit more meat.
When people talk about ethnic restaurants, people often think of the standard Chinese restaurants, or the proliferation of the Japanese restaurants. We tend to forget that we have a wealth of Greek restaurants that offer fabulous food—and Steve’s Bistro sits among the best.
****½ /5
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