Boon Burger


Boon Burger Café on Urbanspoon 

Boon Burger

December, 2011
79 Sherbrook St
204-415-1391
info@boonburger.ca
Twitter:  @boonburger

Boon Burger sits on an obvious corner, in the heart of Sherbrook Street beside the Charisma complex (don’t park at Charisma while visiting Boon).  This area has seen a proliferation of restaurants sprouting in the last while and I haven’t encountered anything bad in the area yet.  Boon is a tiny little establishment that can accommodate a grand total of 24 diners, and you’ll have to share bench seating.  There’s no liquor here so you’ll have to mingle with your neighbours over one of their many organic or natural drink selections.  If you’re not the mingling type, no worries, it has never taken more than a few minutes for my burger to arrive.

As a package, the wonderful Boon Burger delivers almost everything you could want from a burger.  The magnificent sauce and the delicious caramelised onions dance in unison with the wonderful, organic, whole grain bun.  I can’t quite make out the red pepper peach chutney but the sauce has an exotic flavour and I attribute it to the chutney.  The patty—even with nice seasoning and flavour—may be the weak link in this chain.  The texture tastes like a meat patty with too much flour or breadcrumbs.  The grilled patty tries too hard to emulate a meat patty when it doesn’t have to. 

For many years, Underground Café’s Sun-burger set a stellar standard for meatless burgers.  From reputation alone, every vegetarian burger will get inevitable comparisons to the Underground sandwich—and with good reason.  The Sun-Burger stands as a entity of its own without trying to imitate its meat cousin.  The Boon Burger could take a lesson from the Sun to move from “very good burger” status to “great burger” status.

The Buddha Burger takes this next step and delivers a truly delicious sandwich.  Starting with the same bun, the Buddha houses a dripping cacophony of goop, including a red pepper peach chutney, and an alluring aromatic curry mayo.  Fresh cucumber, tomato slices with lettuce and just enough red onion to finish off the perfectly balanced melange of accompaniments.  The patty itself has a blend of textures, stemming from the ground chickpeas and brown rice.  This richly seasoned patty isn’t trying to imitate any meat counterpart; this patty stands as a unique entity on its own that Buddha himself would be proud to eat. 

While half of Boon’s menu features burgers, they also offer a limited selection of non-burger items.  The [not the same ol’] poutine starts with perfectly cooked fries that you swear are deep-fried.  Since Boon has no deep fryer or microwave on premises, you see proof that baked can be as good as fried.  The smothering of delicious gravy again tests your taste buds, as you would never tell that this base has no beef.  Finally, any meathead would have a hard time telling that the gooey cheese is completely vegan.  Scallions finish off this dish by adding nice texture and taste to the poutine.  I’m not sure what ingredient provides a long-lasting, spicy finish but it sure caps off one of the best poutines I’ve had outside of Quebec. 

Sadly, many of my friends will never experience the wonderful food that Boon serves within its modest doors.  While those carnivores sit and sharpen their teeth at home, they miss out on one of the truly great dining pleasures in Winnipeg.  Good for them, as it leaves more seating for me.

**** ½ /5

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