April, 2013
Ikea
500 Sterling
Lyon Parkway
1-866-866-4532
For a person
who views chain restaurants as anathema, what the heck am I doing reviewing one
of the chainiest chains of them all?
Well, Ikea is such a phenomenon in Winnipeg, I feel obligated to say a
few words about their food options. The
600 or so capacity cafeteria usurps Kum Koon as Winnipeg’s largest
restaurant. With its nooks, cubbies and
compartments, this room doesn’t look as expansive as I expected. The full length picture windows, the white
walls and the collection of oddball lampshades make this a bright and welcoming
atmosphere.
This place
brings back memories of the storied cafeterias, like Eaton’s or the (recently
deceased) Paddlewheel at The Bay.
Despite the long lineups, the people pass by quickly and you’re at the
cashier in no time. Carts are available that
hold three trays and I wondered how much food people really need to eat. Then I see our tray overflowing with food for
just two of us and stop mocking the tray carts.
The fish and
chips come with fair-sized fillets but (sadly and expectedly), the fish comes
overcooked and almost rubbery—the crunchless batter doesn’t help the dish. By contrast, the fries taste crispy, light and
competent.
The
light-looking crepes taste quite heavy, thanks to the floury mushroom
sauce. Although the crepe swims in
mushroom sauce, there’s barely a mushroom to be seen. At $4, this is an inexpensive appetiser but
I’m not sure it’s worth the price.
The famous
meatballs also come at good prices – $5 for 10, $6 for 15 or $7 for a score of
meatballs. The smallish Swedish
meatballs have sat in the warmer a little too long and even the gravy can’t
undo the dry exterior. Despite the outer
layer, the inside maintains its moisture and freshness. The gravy’s a little bland but the meatballs
don’t really need it. However, the
coarse-smashed mash potatoes taste bland and flavourless, and definitely in
need of some gravy help. I’m not sure if
the lingonberry jam goes well with this combination but it adds some nice
colour to an otherwise drab-looking presentation.
All of the
dishes bear reasonable price tags so you’re not busted by the time your wander
through the store. If you haven’t had
enough by the time you leave Ikea, the Swedish Food Market near the exit offers
some of the same items as in the restaurant.
I couldn’t help getting some lox (gravlax), which tastes wonderfully marinated. If you want to go with something a little
less Swedish and much more American, you can opt for the ubiquitous hot dog. As much as I despise wieners, the Bistro/Exit
Café offers a reasonable $0.75 price tag, or $1.50 with a drink, or $2 for a
drink and two hot dogs (shudder!).
**½ /5
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