Ikea Restaurant / Cafeteria

April, 2013

Ikea
500 Sterling Lyon Parkway
1-866-866-4532

Ikea Restaurant on Urbanspoon

For a person who views chain restaurants as anathema, what the heck am I doing reviewing one of the chainiest chains of them all?  Well, Ikea is such a phenomenon in Winnipeg, I feel obligated to say a few words about their food options.  The 600 or so capacity cafeteria usurps Kum Koon as Winnipeg’s largest restaurant.  With its nooks, cubbies and compartments, this room doesn’t look as expansive as I expected.  The full length picture windows, the white walls and the collection of oddball lampshades make this a bright and welcoming atmosphere. 

This place brings back memories of the storied cafeterias, like Eaton’s or the (recently deceased) Paddlewheel at The Bay.  Despite the long lineups, the people pass by quickly and you’re at the cashier in no time.  Carts are available that hold three trays and I wondered how much food people really need to eat.  Then I see our tray overflowing with food for just two of us and stop mocking the tray carts. 

The fish and chips come with fair-sized fillets but (sadly and expectedly), the fish comes overcooked and almost rubbery—the crunchless batter doesn’t help the dish.  By contrast, the fries taste crispy, light and competent. 

The light-looking crepes taste quite heavy, thanks to the floury mushroom sauce.  Although the crepe swims in mushroom sauce, there’s barely a mushroom to be seen.  At $4, this is an inexpensive appetiser but I’m not sure it’s worth the price.

The famous meatballs also come at good prices – $5 for 10, $6 for 15 or $7 for a score of meatballs.  The smallish Swedish meatballs have sat in the warmer a little too long and even the gravy can’t undo the dry exterior.  Despite the outer layer, the inside maintains its moisture and freshness.  The gravy’s a little bland but the meatballs don’t really need it.  However, the coarse-smashed mash potatoes taste bland and flavourless, and definitely in need of some gravy help.  I’m not sure if the lingonberry jam goes well with this combination but it adds some nice colour to an otherwise drab-looking presentation.

All of the dishes bear reasonable price tags so you’re not busted by the time your wander through the store.  If you haven’t had enough by the time you leave Ikea, the Swedish Food Market near the exit offers some of the same items as in the restaurant.  I couldn’t help getting some lox (gravlax), which tastes wonderfully marinated.  If you want to go with something a little less Swedish and much more American, you can opt for the ubiquitous hot dog.  As much as I despise wieners, the Bistro/Exit CafĂ© offers a reasonable $0.75 price tag, or $1.50 with a drink, or $2 for a drink and two hot dogs (shudder!). 


**½ /5 

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