Marcello's

Marcello’s
360 Portage Ave
204-415-6783
Fax:  204-415-6783

Marcello's Market & Deli on Urbanspoon

September, 2013

I don’t normally review chain restaurants but I love the concept behind Marcello’s.  Buffet often acts as a kinder synonymous expression for gluttony.  Worse, people pile their plates high because their eyes are larger than their stomachs.  Then they find they can’t (or don’t want) to eat it all and the wastage is shameful.  As well, given Winnipeg’s reputation for frugality, you often hear of people packing it in because it’s all you can eat.  I have an uncle who starves his family until 3 pm, then they head out to the buffet and gorge themselves for the entire day’s feeding.  This is not exactly the prescription for good living—and living in a country where a quarter of the population is obese, buffets are not always the best options for dining. 

Enter Marcello’s where you pay for your buffet based on the weight of your food.  Taking another jab at Winnipeggers, the first complaint comes with having to pay for the weight of your container.  Granted, these heavy-duty containers weight a lot more than the typical Styrofoam containers you commonly see but someone worked it out that the container costs you one dollar.  Think of it this way, because this buffet is self-serve with no table attendants, you save on tipping the staff.  There’s a jar by the cashier but you definitely will not be sticking 20% into there.  Ok, so you take money away from the labour and give it to the international corporation, which is not my idea of good economics, but that’s a different rant.

Back to the buffet, Marcello’s offers a dizzying amount of food, spread over a several tables.  If you want, they also offer pre-made sandwiches, made to order sandwiches, and pizza.  In my wildest dreams, I cannot try everything they present in a single sitting.  I take a tiny portion of my favs into the container and it still seems to be full before I’m through the buffet. 

To prevent this from becoming a dissertation, I will just give a short description on each of the items.  Starting with the salads, every one of their options features green and fresh-looking vegetables.  I’m hard-pressed to find anything stale, wilted or yellow here.  The couscous salad looks green and inviting.  I love couscous and if it’s done right, it tastes absolutely divine.  When it’s done poorly, it can be awful to take; unfortunately, it isn’t done well here and ends up tasting too herbaceous and too green.  The texture tastes very coarse, like taking 40-grit sandpaper over your tongue.  The seafood salad tastes a lot smoother without over-indulging in the mayo.  There’s nice flavour and some texture through the pollock.  Yes, it’s pollock, but they’re not trying to hide it by masking it as imitation crab.  Honestly, I like the taste of pollock, so long as someone isn’t trying to pawn it as something it’s not. 

I like to have something light as a conduit for juices, sauces and whatever goodness that oozes out of flavourful dishes.  The vegetable fried rice looks fluffy and moist but there’s not much flavour here.  This is definitely ideal as a conduit and not as a main.  Get your rice early and pile your meats on top of it.

The curried chicken looks marvellous but all it has is looks.  I guess I’m too used to authentic Indian curry that has so much flavour, slurping up the sauce is even better than chewing on the meat.  The sauce here has almost no curry taste and the meat is no better to chew.  The thick slab of chicken breast is so overcooked that the meat tastes like sticking dry crackers into your mouth.  A good sauce can sometimes overcome the dryness because the meat becomes the conduit, but this entire attempt is a mess. 

The Debrezeni sausage would taste equally dry if not for the high fat content of the meat.  Hungarian sausages are renown for big flavour, supported by lots of spices and explosive flavour—but not here. 
The shepherd’s pie has a lot of meat and good flavour but it could use a bit more potato.  Again, the potato should act as a conduit to the nice pie meat and flavourful sauce. 

The meatballs don’t have a lot of flavour but they’re cooked well, moist and swim in a nice, sweetish sauce.  The penne pasta has a sweet tomato sauce, a little too sweet for my liking but I’m sure there’s a market for it.  The penne pasta with four cheeses doesn’t taste as sweet and it comes with the bonus of cheese.  Melted cheese makes most pasta dishes taste better. 

Some of the dishes are hit and some are miss, but there’s enough variety here to satisfy most everyone.  I suggest small amounts of large variety; if you pile on with only a few selections, you’re out of luck if you encounter something you don’t like.  You have to get out of the buffet mentality where you casually leave mounds of food on the table because you don’t like it.

Even in the middle of the weekday lunch hour, the people file in and out quickly and you’re not pressed to find a table.  The line to pay looks as long as the Great Wall of China but the efficient cashiers get you out quickly.  If you have an hour for lunch, you have plenty of time to get in and out, and back to work before your colleagues give you the late-from-lunch evil eye.

*** /5

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