Barley Brothers

Barley Brothers
655 Empress St
204-772-2337
Twitter:  @BarleyBrosWpg


November, 2013

If I was 20 years younger, I would be here every week.  The sports screens and the vibrant atmosphere would have been enough of a draw, but adding great beer to the menu would have been the trump card.  Today, I’m a little too old for the dining room din and the frantic crowds—but I’m not too old for great beer!

By far, Barley Brothers has the best beer selection in the city, and I’m not talking about the Labatt’s crap; in fact, I don’t think you’ll find a Labatt’s or Molson’s product on the premises.  Instead, you’ll find 50-ish selections of beers, covering the spectrum from lagers, to wheats, to ales, to bitters, to stouts, and more.  If you remotely like beer, there’s something for you here; if you don’t like beer, what are you doing here? 

If you can’t make up your mind, they have sampler packs of four available.  This is a good way to get a broad sampling of delicious beers, and do a side-by-side of your favourites.  For you true beer heads, they offer you beer passports to track the appearance, nose and palette of each beer you sample.  Again, 20 years ago, I would have sampled each and every beer, and had a complete passport with their descriptions; today, I’m as much about the beer as I am about the food.

Barley has a complete selection of the usual bar-grub, with a few haute-table surprises.  The oysters on the half-shell come with a beer broth poured into the shells.  When it comes to raw oysters, I’m an absolute purist.  Why would you want to taint the delicate and delicious nature of the mollusc?  Just leave me alone with my oysters, with perhaps a drop of lemon juice!  Although the beer foam is quite mild, it does not complement or contrast the oyster; it simple overpowers it.  We ended up pouring the beer off the shell before slurping.

By contrast, the Beer and Bison Bourguignon perfectly combines the flavour of the bison with a lovely gravy, enhanced by the depth of the beer.  This delicious dish leaves you wanting for more after you gobble up the tender bison chunks.  The house-made beer bread would normally be the perfect conduit for soaking up the remaining sauce.  However, I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a dense bread before in my life (except for the time my cousin used a can of yeast, instead of a packet!).  This slab weighs about two pounds and has the consistency of limestone—there is no way this bread will soak up any sauce.  I’m better off licking the bowl.

If you’re more into the pub-grub, the poutine starts with McDonald’s-like fries that are neither greasy nor heavy.  The beer gravy too tastes quite light and flavourful.  Hefty pieces of curds complete this competent intro. 

No pub appetiser list would be complete without chicken wings, and Barleys has some unique flavours.  It bothers me that places like Smitty’s charges $0.25 per wing, but gives you wings that could have come from robins.  Not so here—the plump and juicy wings have only a tinge of smoke but lots of taste.  They don’t fool around as the hot wings taste genuinely hot.  Today, you find Sriracha everywhere and you can find it with your wings too; it’s a nicely made sauce that adds a zing to the wings.

For me, beer isn’t complete without a burger, and they have plenty from which to choose.  The chicken burger comes with a grilled piece of breast meat, nestled among crisp and fresh vegetables.  Although the meat comes nicely seared on the outside, it’s overcooked and dry on the inside.  Part of the problem is the thinness of the meat.  No chicken has a breast this thin, which means they either hammered out the meat or butterfly-sliced it to stretch it out. 

The beef burgers sit on the opposite end of the thickness scale.  The patties measure in close to an inch thick and if you add the vegetables and bun, this burger tops off at a jaw-breaking five inches tall!  Since the sirloin patty is so thick, I imagine it to be almost impossible to overcook, and yet, here it is.  Similar to the chicken, the outside has wonderful searing but the inside is also overcooked and dry.

There are some hits and misses here but regardless of what food item you order, I suggest you order it quickly.  By no fault of the server (who is quick to replenish the drinks), it takes a while for the food to come.  If you’re like me and you want to take your time to sample beers, that’s perfectly dandy—but if you just want a quick lager with your burger, you might end up grumpy as you wait.  That just strengthens my resolve that you should throw out your watch, sample some beers, and not care when your food arrives.  I could sit here all night—now how do I turn the clock back 20 years?

**** /5

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