Salisbury House


Salisbury House
16 locations across Winnipeg
204-237-8305
http://www.salisburyhouse.ca/index.html

Mains start with garlic toast, slathered in butter.  I know many people love to soak their bread in butter but I don’t know anyone who wants their butter cold and coagulated.  Sadly, I must declare this toast a success, as I’ve had much worse toast at other Sals locations, including one incident where they tried to hide the burnt side by turning it over.  What a terrible debacle.  The food is completely inedible and yet, they try to hide it from you, to fool you into eating it.  Folks, we’re talking about two pieces of bread that likely costs them a penny each.  This is an offensive, abject disgrace.

Sals serves breakfasts all day, including the usual breakfast options.  The Hearty Breakfasts are hardly hearty as the wee strips of bacon are lost on the dish.  I never thought that there’s more than one size to bacon, but I guess there is.  The hard and rubbery omelettes contain plenty of eggs, probably more than you want to eat.

The side of coleslaw has fresh and crispy vegetables, but the complete lack of dressing leaves the slaw bone dry.  The side of chilli provides a better option.  The rich sauce has lots of meat, although little less salt would improve the dish.

The fish & fries comes with two of the smallest pieces of cod that I’ve ever seen.  The batter tastes light and crispy but the fish itself tastes leather-firm from being overcooked.  The best thing about this dish is the tartar sauce.

Known for their burgers, Salisbury House coined the term “nip” to denote a hamburger.  The Mr. Big Nip comes with raw onions, a slice of processed cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato and Sals Sauce.  Sals promises fresh ingredients and indeed the vegetables come garden fresh.  The lettuce tastes crisp; the onions taste clean; and the tomato slices are firm.  Unfortunately, these aren’t home-grown tomatoes and they are mostly tasteless.  The wafer thin beef patty is dry and also tasteless.  The Mr. Big Nip is big in vegetables but small in meat.  As well, the slice of processed cheese is so thin that I had to search dedicatedly to find it.  I’m still not quite sure it was ever there.  I don’t think the burger has any condiments.  Although the Nip purports to have Sals Sauce, I can’t taste anything but a dry meat on a dry bun.  For some reason, the regular Nip patty has a lot more substance than the Mr. Big Nip. 

We all know what zombies are, right?  If a zombie bites you, you get infected and you yourself become a zombie?  What happens if a zombie bites a cow?  Does the cow become a cow-zombie?  And what would the cow-zombie look like?  I imagine it to have grey flesh, much like the ground meat that makes up this Nip.  There’s absolutely no searing, resulting in no caramelising (and thus the greyness),  Although there’s no browning, this patty still sees plenty of heat, so much that it comes completely dry and liver-tasting.  To make matters worse, there’s no seasoning whatsoever, contributing to the blandness of the meat.  Yuck.  Instead of raw onions, this Nip comes with fried onions, adding some grease (and much needed moisture) to this sandwich.

Mercifully, it’s not all terrible.  The mushroom soup has some depth and richness.  The plentiful chunks of mushrooms ensure that every bite has lots of substance. 

Last time I dined at Sals, the poutine tasted absolutely awful—tasteless, cold and crusty.  They must have read my tirade since today’s poutine comes much improved.  The home-cut fries taste soft and limp but they’re ok for sopping up the gravy.  The gravy lacks flavour and has too much salt but at least there’s plenty of it.  The cheese curds make the dish and there’s enough of it to keep you satisfied. 

The next time you step into a Salisbury House, take a close look at their laminated menu and its plentiful photographs.  What you see is exactly what you get—and what you see isn’t very good.  The meals from the menus all look dry and plastic!  Honestly, the photos look terrible and what you get isn’t any better.  Sals has been an institution in Winnipeg for a very long time and it’s amazing they stay in business serving this kind of food.

Looking around the dining room, I see that I am the youngest person with a burger-toss radius.  Most of the patrons in here outdate me by decades, and I’m no spring-chicken, being in my forties.  Now I understand that no one comes here for the food; they come here because it’s an institution.  Everyone knows each other and Sals is the geriatric version of kids at 7-11.  People socialise and jibber-jabber, casually passing the time.  They’re not here for the food—they’re here for the company.  Judging by the customers, this restaurant chain should be out of business in the next ten years.

½ /5

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