Comodo
Chinese Restaurant
204-663-9333
Comodo
means to play music at a relaxed pace; I don’t think that has anything to do
with the restaurant business, unless this is one of those chichi places that
features a string quartet playing Chopin comodo. Looking at the stark and dingy dining room, I
don’t expect a quartet in tails to arrive any time soon.
Now I
wonder if the restaurant refers to the large, poisonous lizard, the komodo
dragon? Despite having the 130+ items on
the menu, I don’t see komodo dragon anywhere.
What I see is what you expect to see from almost every Chinese
restaurant, ubiquitous to Winnipeg
Staring
with the appetisers, the spring rolls come crispy without a lot of grease. There’s plenty of vegetables in the stuffing,
including the cloud ear fungus, which injects a nice crunch and zip of
flavour. The spring rolls too have
little grease with plenty of stuffing.
The cabbage-dominated innards still have lots of crispy goodness.
Then it all
goes downhill.
The
vegetables in the Beef with Mixed Vegetables retains its crispness but has no
flavour and tons of salt and/or MSG. There’s
ample beef in here but the meat too needs more spicing up than a mere sodium
explosion. I applaud the variety of
vegetables, including broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, suey choy and bok
choy—it’s nice to see an infusion of Chinese with Western ingredients.
You get a
mountain of chicken balls to go with the sweet, florescent pink sauce. Some of the balls have a moderate-sized
nugget of chicken, while others have a smidgen of meat, generously encased in a
mass of fried dough. Giving credit where
due, Comodo does an excellent job of frying, where the food comes out golden
brown, without a hint of fat remaining.
The Beef
Egg Foo Young is an absolute disaster. Good
foo young features fluffy eggs, lightly beaten, incorporating lightly
stir-fried ingredients. Vegetables
should taste crispy and meats should taste juicy. Even if you order a meat foo young, you
should get at least celery and onions. I
don’t find any vegetables in here at all, and the tiny strips of beef hide like
Waldo at a bazarre. The poor eggs have
been beaten to death and the foo young looks more like General Custard. The eggs are so overcooked, it takes me three
bites to determine that this actually is still egg. No lie, I looked on the menu again to verify
what we ordered.
Under Szechwan , Kung Pao Chicken usually features
stir-fried chicken with fried peanuts with a variety of vegetables. The dish normally has hot chillies, giving
you a bit of a workout. There are no hot
chillies here; instead, a sickly sweet, gooey sauce envelopes the breaded and
deep fried chicken slivers. While
there’s a generous sprinkling of peanuts, the vegetables are gone and the
result ends up looking nothing like what you expect out of kung pao.
If you
spend more than $34, you get your choice of chicken fried rice or three cans of
soft drinks—take the soft drinks. Since
every dish comes loaded with salt and MSG, you’ll feel the thirst very soon.
** /5
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