Cornerstone Bar & Restaurant

The Cornerstone Bar & Restaurant
93 Osborne St
204-505-7772

Papa George’s was an Osborne Village icon that finally shut its doors for good this year, and I’m glad.  George’s service sat on the spectrum somewhere between bad and horrendous.  I couldn’t even tell you about the food because the last time I visited, I waited for no less than 40 minutes with no server approaching—no food, no drinks, no nothing.  We eventually left.

Turn the page and the Cornerstone Bar & Restaurant has taken Papa’s place.  The location’s a lot brighter and cheerier, with unobstructed windows offering diners a direct view to some of Winnipeg’s most interesting characters outside.  Not only has the appearance changed; the service has improved immensely as the array of staff flit hurriedly from table to table to kitchen. 
With a great view of the kitchen, every dish that passes by our table leaves me rubbernecking.  My meal starts with the Cioppino, or fish stew.  My first mussel disappoints me as it tastes dry and overcooked.  A well-made mussel looks very plump and tastes juicy—an overcooked mussel looks sere and shrunken.  Fortunately, only two of the ~10 mussels saw too much heat; the remainder tastes delicious. 

Often, when a dish comes with fresh mussels and clams, the mussels will be overcooked, as the clams normally take more time to cook.  Not so here—the clams tastes perfectly made, to go with the majority of the mussels.  Similarly, the shrimps also taste juicy and moist—and I’m thankful that they removed the tail for you.  I know that shrimps traditionally come with tails on—but why?  I much prefer poking my shrimp with a fork, over dirtying my hands to pick up the tail.
My cioppino only came with one scallop, and I would like to have seen more of the delicious molluscs.  There isn’t a lot of salmon meat either, but there’s enough to give the broth a rich, full-bodied seafood essence.  The crab claw on top of the mound makes a lovely topper—alas, it’s a tad overdone as well but I’ll take it nevertheless.  

You get fresh and crispy toast on the side.  It’s difficult not to indulge as it tastes great on its own, but as a sopper for remaining broth, it sponges everything nicely. 
The Chickpea Soup is supposed to come with guacamole and crispy quinoa but there isn’t a lot.  The soup has enough substance to be a good base but it needs a bit more to make it exciting.  The depth of some more guac and the crunch of more quinoa would elevate this starter greatly.    

The simple Pickerel main comes lightly seasoned, which is great since it lets the delicate flavours of the fish shine through.  The velvety couscous also tastes very subtle, making a nice complement to the fish.  I would like to see a few more mushrooms, as well as something else in the couscous to act as a contrast to the texture—perhaps something lightly fried and crispy.

The menu offers a number of interesting and unique sandwiches but if you want something more plain, you must try the Cornerstone Burger.  The plump and delicious patty comes beautifully seared on the outside and wonderfully moist on the inside.  Tons of onions contribute to making this simple but excellent burger a winner—I love the addition of lightly fried onions to give a bit of crunch to every bite.

The Steak Frites comes with wonderful rustic fries, expertly fried to be firm and not at all greasy.  They’re perfect for soaking up the beef juice left by the steak.  The steak comes exactly grilled as ordered and tastes wonderful. 

Cornerstone is not a dark, quiet, romantic retreat.  True to its Osborne nature, the restless and nomadic customers keep the dining room loud and lively music pumps the action.  This is not the place to go for a restorative, vegetative respite, but it is a great place to go for an exciting meal to start the evening.


**** /5

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Comments

  1. It’s a great post. I am going to host a dinner party on my birthday at one of best dinner party venues in Chicago. I have been to that place only once but had a great experience. Their cuisines were so yummy and delicious.

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